The former Palais Lobkowitz is home to one of the state museums, the Theatermuseum. This place is a melange — theatre artifacts, a library, paintings by Rubens and Van Dyke and Bosch and Cranach the Elder and Titian and the like.
I especially enjoyed this painting ca. 1525 by Joos van Cleve, from Amsterdam. He titled it “The Holy Family,” but an impish Jesus is pinching Mary’s breast (or maybe he’s just wanting milk), and Joseph looks like an inspiration for “American Gothic” 400 years later.
The collection is deep with Rubens. And the Hieronymous Bosch triptych is truly disturbing.
The Lobkowitz royalty were patrons of Beethoven. He conducted the premiere of his 4th Symphony in this very hall:
I walked on floors today where Beethoven walked.
My days have developed a bit of a routine in the last week. After breakfast of eggs and fruit and some bread (the latter purchased down the street), I spend a couple of hours on school email and projects. And then I set out for whatever is on my agenda.
Friday was another tourist day.
- post office
- temporary Parlament building tour
- audio tour of the Treasury
- a bit of time at Cafe Klimt
- walk home, but not before buying an Austrian cookbook (sort of the local equivalent of The Joy of Cooking)
- dinner at the flat
- FaceTime with the office staff in Webster Groves
One of things that I love to do in other cities and countries is go to their local outdoor markets. The food-tasting and people-watching and photo-grabbing are always primo!
From the Naschmarkt on Friday:
Things stuffed with cheese.
Wednesday and Thursday have been fairly heavy work days here in Vienna, with meetings and conversations that are proving productive!
Since I was in the neighborhood, I did sneak in a visit to the Freud Museum on Thursday. How surreal to realize that I was standing on the same stairs walked by Freud and Carl Jung and so many others, and that I was in the room where Freud conducted his psychoanalysis, and in the office where he wrote so many of his books.
In the entry hall, his hat and casual cap and walking stick. Wow.
This was a delightful visit!
Lunch was gyoza at a kiosk at the Rathaus; dinner, lasagna and a salad at La Norma in the city centre.
And this photo from the street around the corner of my flat, AKA, my neighborhood:
In memory of my maternal grandmother Ruth Gutshall Blocher, on this 110th anniversary of her birth, this photo of her with my sister Karen at my sister’s wedding in 1986:
I am sitting on the #71 tram, very near to the front of the first car. Behind me are three full cars, filled with soft chatter. I am watching the world go by, and not engaging with anyone on the tram.
We pull up to the tram stop, and I hear noises of people shuffling off the tram. This is typical.
And then suddenly, there is silence.
The tram doors are closed, and the tram is moving, but there is not an iota of chatter. So I turn around, and see, for the first time in my life, a nearly empty tram:
The #71 had pulled up to a major subway stop, and all but two of us on the tram had alighted to take the subway!
For a moment, though, I wondered what had happened . . . .
Since Wednesday was a working day, with nothing remarkable to report or share, I thought I’d simply post video of some of my time on the #1 tram Wednesday morning.
This arrived on Wednesday afternoon from the housesitter.
I see all these doggies in Vienna, and I miss Auggie so much!!